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How this Elsmere-area bakery has cemented itself in family celebrations, Three Kings' Day

Shelves of freshly baked Mexican breads, pastries and confections stood showcased within a well-worn wooden cabinet inside Pasteles Rojas Bakery, a cozy, family-run shop cradled by a busy intersection along Kirkwood Highway near Elsmere.Four glass doors exhibited the multicolored conchas, a traditional Mexican sweet bread roll resembling a seashell, that ranged from rows of pastel pinks and yellow...

Shelves of freshly baked Mexican breads, pastries and confections stood showcased within a well-worn wooden cabinet inside Pasteles Rojas Bakery, a cozy, family-run shop cradled by a busy intersection along Kirkwood Highway near Elsmere.

Four glass doors exhibited the multicolored conchas, a traditional Mexican sweet bread roll resembling a seashell, that ranged from rows of pastel pinks and yellows to warm browns and whites.

As a slow yet steady stream of customers made their way inside from the cold, a welcome wisp of warm, sugary air greeted them. Upon entry, they grabbed a plastic tray and a pair of metal tongs before crouching and peering through the various rows and shelves of the cabinet, only to return to the counter with a generous mound of carefully chosen confections.

The true baked gem of the shop, however, sat in a large, burnt orange room at the farthest end of the building, awaiting its day of celebration on Día de los Reyes, or Three Kings’ Day. The gem, a traditional Rosca de Reyes, or Kings' Cake, is a staple of the Jan. 6 holiday celebration across Latin America, Spain and Hispanic communities throughout the U.S.

When the holiday nears, the bakery – which doubles as a specialized cake shop – begins to receive orders early for the royal ring-shaped loaf as it does each year, helping to uphold the holiday tradition among Delaware’s Hispanic community.

Since its opening in 2015, the relatively young bakery has become renowned throughout the tri-state area for its cakes and baked goods, becoming a staple of celebrations and gatherings across the community.

From birthdays and quinceañeras to Kings’ Day celebrations, the shop has aided patrons in celebrating the hallmarks and traditions of their lives, ultimately becoming part of them itself.

Baby in the cake

Three Kings’ Day, which for many also marks the end of the holiday season on the 12th day of Christmas, celebrates the adoration of baby Jesus by the three kings, wise men or Magi. The three kings traveled across the desert while following a star for 12 days until they reached Bethlehem, where they presented Jesus with gifts.

While traditions may vary depending on where they are celebrated, it is common for children to leave their shoes by the door or under the Christmas tree for the kings to leave presents for them. Many families also leave carrots, grass and other treats for the horse, camel and elephant upon which the kings ride.

Children will write letters to the kings in the days before the celebration and oftentimes, the letters will be attached to helium balloons before being released into the sky.

On the night of the celebration, families traditionally gather and share the coveted Rosca de Reyes cake that is topped with candied fruit and powdered sugar, meant to resemble a king’s crown. The rosca, which means “wreath,” is typically accompanied by hot chocolate or atole, a hot traditional Mexican drink derived from corn.

A small, white plastic figurine of baby Jesus is baked into the bread and hidden for whoever finds it – that person is expected to host a party with tamales on Feb. 2, Día de la Candelaria. Depending on the size of the cake, there could be multiple figurines hidden.

In Mexico City, thousands gather every year to eat a mile-long Rosca de Reyes on the eve of the holiday. The celebration has drawn more than 200,000 people in past years.

“The essence of the Rosca de Reyes is, more than anything, to come together as a family and share a good moment,” said Isaac Rojas, manager of Pasteles Rojas Bakery. “More than anything, it’s that. Sharing, laughing and enjoying – that is the true essence of this”.

A realized dream

The demand for the Rosca de Reyes has become so high that Rojas and his team must begin preparing them days before. That's because on Jan. 6, their parking lot brims with cars full of people eager to get one before the night’s celebration.

Even on days without a celebration, loyal patrons travel from Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland and nearby cities in northern Delaware to retrieve ornate cakes and trays full of conchas.

The now-thriving locale, however, was born inside a house as a nighttime baking hobby.

In 2010, in the evenings after coming home from work, Rojas began to bake and decorate cakes in his home. He eventually began making small cakes for celebrations of close friends and family while maintaining his restaurant job and taking English courses at the same time.

Soon, his clientele expanded out of his close circle and strangers began calling him asking for his cakes. As he advertised his creations on Facebook, Rojas soon gained a following of dedicated clients who booked him for each of their special occasions.

“There came a time when it was no longer only relatives and cousins," Rojas said. "People who I didn’t even know began to call me."

He was asked to make a cake for a quinceañera and, soon after, a wedding.

Tasked with pleasing and feeding upwards of 200 people with his homemade cakes, Rojas realized something had changed.

Then about six years ago, after receiving numerous suggestions from clients to open his own bakery, Rojas decided to open the establishment alongside his two older brothers. Rojas’ brothers were bakers in Mexico and brought a combined 20 years of experience with them.

Rojas, the youngest of seven children, had none.

“I had no idea about this,” Rojas said before breaking into a chuckle.

With the help of a few baking and decorating courses and on-the-ground experience, Rojas helped the bakery gain traction within the community, citing support from social media and the family’s signature tres leches cake recipe, brought with them from Mexico.

The tres leches cake, or three milks cake, is still one of the things customers cite when asked about what makes the bakery special to them. The cake maintains its signature moistness with each bite, not leaving pockets of dryness throughout.

Marcos Gonzalez, a longtime customer of the bakery, recently retrieved one of the shop’s signature tres leches cakes for his son’s birthday. Gonzalez, who lives in New Castle and has been a customer of the shop since they opened, drives to Elsmere two to three times a week to get their baked goods.

In the first few years since the bakery opened, it was run and operated solely by family. Today, it has expanded to employ others, but many of the employees are still close family friends or in-laws, helping maintain the sense of the original family-run establishment.

While the building may have changed from a house to a storefront, many of those original clients continue to frequent Rojas’ business. Rojas has even kept the original Facebook page that announced his home business, only updating it with the bakery’s new location.

“It’s a joy to see that and to have realized the dream that I once had,” Rojas said.

For Yaneli Lozano, a Wilmington resident, the draw of the bakery extends far beyond their cakes.

“For me, what’s special about them is how they treat you outside of the business,” Lozano said.

Lozano has been a client of the bakery since they opened and acknowledged the role that Rojas and his team have played in her life during birthday celebrations and quinceañeras.

“It feels like family because without them we wouldn’t have a cake to celebrate a birthday," she said. "They put in all of their hard work so that everything is beautiful.”

In the end, being able to be a part of people’s joys and celebrations, even in a small way, is the most gratifying aspect of the endeavor for Rojas. His late nights, early mornings and hard work are all validated in these small moments of happiness that are supported by his creations.

“Seeing them enjoy the moment – yes, it’s hard work and even sleepless nights, but in the end that is truly what’s important about this,” Rojas said.

On a recent morning, a couple dozen trays of freshly baked goods were wheeled into the front room of the store, ready to replenish the stock inside of the wooden cabinet. A few of the Rosca de Reyes' remained in the back room, awaiting their retrieval by ready-to-celebrate clients.

Come the holiday, the space will become crowded with people as they prepare to gather with family, enjoy the wreath-shaped cake and create memories that the bakery will take part in – even in just a small way.

Pasteles Rojas Bakery can be found at 2110 Kirkwood Highway, Wilmington, DE 19805. The bakery is open from 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily.

Contact the reporter at [email protected] or connect with him on Twitter @joseicastaneda.

Hot chicken sandwich war: Which is better? Wilmington's Nanu's or Elsmere's Hangry Joe's?

Sometimes in Wilmington, it has felt like the Nashville-style hot chicken craze had passed by Delaware's biggest city.There have been few options for quality hot chicken sandwiches even as the nationwide trend grows and fast-casual restaurants dedicated to heat have sprouted all around, including Philadelphia-based chain Asad's Hot Chicken and the national ...

Sometimes in Wilmington, it has felt like the Nashville-style hot chicken craze had passed by Delaware's biggest city.

There have been few options for quality hot chicken sandwiches even as the nationwide trend grows and fast-casual restaurants dedicated to heat have sprouted all around, including Philadelphia-based chain Asad's Hot Chicken and the national Dave's Hot Chicken franchises.

Well, that came to a screeching halt recently as two hot chicken chains planted their beaks in the ground, opening on the same road only 2 miles away from each other.

First came Hangry Joe's Hot Chicken & Wings (1112 Kirkwood Highway, Elsmere), an established Virginia-based chain, which has been up and running for nearly four years, expanding at a rapid pace ever since. (A second location also opened at 50 U.S. 13 in Dover, both in November.)

A month after Hangry Joe made his fiery debut, Nanu's Hot Chicken (414 N. Union St., Wilmington) began serving their own spice-seasoned chicken as the upstart Philadelphia-based chain opened its debut (and still only) location in Delaware, 1½ years since first launching.

Imran Rashid, who started and owns the Nanu's chain with brothers Haroon and Ikram, said they decided to expand into Delaware because they saw an opening – the same thing Hangry Joe's undoubtedly saw, only beating them to the punch by a month due to a delay in their grand opening.

With a hot chicken war fired up on the Union Street/Kirkwood Highway corridor, we decided to put them to the test and pick a winner.

The shops

Nanu's: First opened in July 2023 in Philadelphia on Cottman Avenue, they now have 10 locations – six in Philadelphia and one in Bensalem, along with one each in New Jersey and New York. Wilmington is their most recent opening.

Hangry Joe's: Initially launched in May 2021 in Ashland, Virginia, by partners Derek Cha and Mike Kim, they have nearly 130 locations in 22 states, along with one in Washington, D.C., and another in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. There are 39 in their home state of Virginia alone.

The menus

Nanu's: Only combo meals coming with french fries are listed on the main menu, but you can order just an entrée like we ended up doing. The combo headliners are the chicken sandwich ($9.89), chicken tenders with a waffle ($11.89-$13.89), two-sandwich meal ($13.89) and one chicken tender and one chicken sandwich ($12.89).

An order of loaded waffle fries topped with chopped tenders, cheese, coleslaw and pickles is also up for grabs ($12.89), along with the similar loaded french fries ($11.89) and shrimp loaded fries ($13.89). A chicken tender wrap ($10.89), chicken wings ($11.89), vegetarian "cauli tenders" ($13.89-$14.89) and a shrimp wrap ($13.89) round out the main menu.

The sides include regular, cheese and waffle fries ($3.99-$4.99), coleslaw ($3.50), macaroni and cheese ($3.99) and waffle bread ($2.99). You also can order a single chicken sandwich ($7.49) or a single chicken sandwich with waffles instead of a bun ($7.49), along with a single shrimp wrap ($8.99), single chicken tender wrap ($7.49), single chicken tender ($4.49) or single chicken wing ($1.99).

Hangry Joe's: The "Mega Sando" with one large chicken breast ($9.99) and "Sando" with two chicken tenders ($7.20) anchor the menu, which also includes chicken tenders ($9.99), chicken wraps ($9.99), chicken bites ($7.20-$9.99), chicken and waffles ($13.35) and Korean chicken nuggets ($11.15). Wings come in orders of six ($9.45) to 50 ($61.95).

Also among the entrées: a "Messy Sando," a version of the "Mega Sando" drenched in spicy smoke barbecue sauce ($10.75), Hangry chicken salad ($12.35), loaded fries ($12.35) and loaded macaroni and cheese ($13.35).

Combo meals of the entrees are available with waffle fries and a drink. Sides include waffle fries, fried okra, rice, "cider slaw," waffles and macaroni and cheese ($2.99-$3.75)

The heat

Nanu's: All entrées can be ordered with regular hot sauce or hot-honey style. And you also can pick your heat level for the sauce ranging from none and mild and medium to hot, extra hot and, um, even a flavor called reaper.

Hangry Joe's: All of their main meals are available with no seasoning, no heat or mild. And if you want some spice, there's medium, hot and purposefully scary "angry hot," which requires you to sign a waiver and is nonrefundable.

The sandwich

Nanu's: We ordered our chicken sandwich regular style, but extra hot. With no tables at the takeout counter, we opened it after a short drive home. The sandwich with its glistening brioche bun was half wrapped in paper like Shake Shack and In-N-Out do with their hamburgers for easier (and neater) eating. The juicy, bigger-than-the-bun chicken breast was encased in a deep-fried crunchy coating, clearly fresh out of the fryer as evidenced by the dark red oil drops leaking out after a few bites. It was topped with cheese, coleslaw, pickles and sauce, all of which melded together for a legit hot chicken sandwich experience. The extra hot sauce had a nice kick, but as heat-lovers, we won't fear the reaper next time. The hot sauce taste was so good, we didn't even use the extra cup of creamy Nanu's special sauce that came with the sandwich. It shined on its own.

Hangry Joe's: We went with the "Mega Sando" for their full chicken sandwich experience: an 8-ounce seasoned chicken breast topped with a large mound of cider slaw, pickles and Hangry sauce on a brioche bun. The hefty sandwich also came half-wrapped, but there was no oil found on this one. The outer coating was eerily dry and lacked any real crunch, although the chicken breast was appropriately juicy. We ordered it hot – and, boy, was it. It leaves your brow sweating and your lips tinging. We were scared off of ever trying their "angry hot" flavor with its waiver. Even though the breading was minimal and dry, a quick dip in the extra cup of extra hot Hangry Joe's sauce (butter, vinegar, sugar, chili powder, cayenne pepper, paprika, garlic powder and onion powder) made up for it.

Cost

Nanu's: $7.49, although the menu on the wall mistakenly lists it as $6.99.

Hangry Joe's: $9.99

Pros & cons

Nanu's: As for the pros, we ordered at lunchtime and got our sandwich really quick, taking only three minutes. We also love that a waffle comes standard with the combo meal of chicken tenders and french fries. It's a nice touch.

In terms of a con, you cannot eat at the tiny shop, which does not have any seating and is takeout only.

Hangry Joe's: The biggest con was the more than 10-minute wait for our sandwich, even though we visited first thing after opening at 11 a.m. and were the only people there. To be fair, there is a warning we saw on our way out. A sign sits near the cash register, "Every order is made fresh. We make sure it's worth it." It also notes that "rush hours" wait time is 15 to 20 minutes with a wait of eight to 15 minutes for non-"rush hours."

Pros include the ability to order ahead online to avoid that wait, along with a self-ordering kiosk to avoid an in-store line. The gleaming dining room is bright with up-tempo music, making any wait as pleasurable as possible. Their colorful mural, which features their flaming mascot Hangry Joe, includes nice touches, mentioning that Elsmere is their first Delaware location with a "HOTCHCKN" Delaware license plate and a Riverfront Wilmington sign.

The winner

This was a tough decision. The "Mega Sando" from Hangry Joe's is a substantial sandwich and we must note that we ordered the larger version while Nanu's offers only one standard size.

The Hangry Joe's sandwich offered a bigger chicken breast and more heat, while Nanu's had a much better-fried breading and the addition of cheese, which added a nice layer of creaminess. We loved the big crunch of Nanu's. Both use a somewhat stiff brioche bun, and here's to hoping the brioche bun fad dies soon.

Pound for pound, we have to say we liked the upstart Nanu's better than Hangry Joe's by a smidge. That said, we'd happily pay a little more for a thicker chicken breast at Nanu's. Perhaps they should offer a larger-sized sandwich like Hangry Joe's. Next time, we'll order a side chicken tender to beef up the sandwich and maybe try waffles as a bun to bypass the brioche.

Have a story idea? Contact Ryan Cormier of Delaware Online/The News Journal at [email protected] or (302) 324-2863. Follow him on Facebook (@ryancormier) and X (@ryancormier).

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